Frequently Asked Questions
- Can I mount ProMonitor speakers to a wall? Click for Answer
- How do I contact Definitive Technology?Click for Answer
- What is the best way to hook up my subwoofer?Click for Answer
- Are small speakers as good as large ones?Click for Answer
- Can I mount ProCenter speakers to a wall?Click for Answer
- Do I need to register in order for my product to be covered by Definitive's warranty? Click for Answer
- Why am I not getting any bass out of my new subwoofer?Click for Answer
- My Definitive Technology product needs repair. How can I get service?Click for Answer
- What is the impedance of Definitive Technology speakers?Click for Answer
- What kind of cables and speaker wires should I use? What gauge is appropriate?Click for Answer
- What is Definitive's Warranty?Click for Answer
- What receiver or amplifier works best with Definitive Technology loudspeakers?Click for Answer
- Do Definitive Technology speakers sound good on music?Click for Answer
- What are the advantages of the ProCenter 2000 over the ProCenter 1000?Click for Answer
- Why is my passive loudspeaker making bad sounds?Click for Answer
Can I mount ProMonitor speakers to a wall?Answer:
ProMonitor speakers can be mounted to the wall using either the key-hole slot (and a drywall anchor or wood screw) or via an optional articulating (aim-able) bracket. The keyhole slot mounting method is easy and convenient but does not allowing aiming of the speaker.
Each ProMonitor speaker has a ¼ - 20 thread on the back of the speaker, near the bottom, to accommodate an optional articulating bracket. You will note that “¼ - 20” means ¼ inch diameter and 20 threads per inch.
When mounting ProMonitors 400, 600, or 800 use either ProMount 80 or ProMount 90 (available separately). When Mounting ProMonitor 1000 use ProMount 90 only (still available separately).
Additionally each ProMonitor speaker also has a second ¼ - 20 insert on the bottom of the cabinet that secures the tripod table base, except for ProMonitor 400 that only has the single thread alluded to above. When mounting ProMonitors 600, 800, or 1000 to a wall, remove the tripod base and insert the glossy thread cover to hide the brass thread. For ProMonitor 400 simply unclip clear plastic molded bottom.
To mount ProMonitors 600, 800, or 1000 to a ProStand (optional floor stand, available separately) you will also remove the tripod base to accommodate a direct coupling between the ProMonitor and the ProStand.
How do I contact Definitive Technology?Answer:
11433 Cronridge Drive
Owings Mills, Maryland 21117-2294
What is the best way to hook up my subwoofer?Answer:
If you have Definitive SuperTower speakers with built-in powered subwoofers, refer to the FAQ specifically for their hookup.
The easiest method to hook up a subwoofer to a surround receiver is to connect the "sub out" or LFE output of the receiver to the "LFE" input on your subwoofer using a single audio patch cord interconnect cable with RCA type connectors on both ends; it does not have to be specifically labeled as a “subwoofer cable.”
Next you must configure the receiver to send a signal to the subwoofer output jack. Read the receiver’s owner’s manual to see how to access its Speaker Set-Up menu. Once in the menu, set it to Subwoofer = Yes.
While in that menu you should also set the configuration of the other speakers in your system. If you have small satellite type speakers or bookshelf speakers you should set them as “Small.” Floor-standing speakers should be set to “Large.” Most center channel and surround channel speakers should be set to “Small.” We strongly recommend that you check your speakers’ instruction manual for further Small vs. Large guidance.
Next adjust the receiver's crossover frequency. The kind of speakers you have will determine the appropriate crossover frequency: small satellite style speakers should use 100-150 Hz, bookshelf speakers 80-120 Hz and tower speakers (without built-in powered subwoofers) 60-80 Hz. Some receivers allow you to set the crossover of each channel independently but many do not in which case use the highest crossover setting called for among the speakers in your system. If you have Definitive speakers, consult the crossover chart for specific recommendations.
Are small speakers as good as large ones?Answer:
It depends! If you don't mind large speakers in your room and you have the space to place them properly, then choose large speakers. They'll sound great. If you have a small to moderate size room and you don't have the space to place large speakers properly, then small speakers will sound better. It's easier in this instance to place small speakers in locations to provide superior imaging and it's also easier to place a subwoofer for better bass response. You might be pleasantly surprised how good small speakers can sound particularly if they are Definitive ProCinema/ProMonitor models.
There may be some tradeoffs with small speakers; they won't play as loud as large speakers (although plenty loud enough for most people and rooms). Those little satellites cannot reproduce bass of their own, making it tough to achieve a seamless blend between satellite and sub. There is often a "hole" or weak response in the lower midrange area (bottom range of a male voice) where the satellite's response leaves off and the subwoofer takes over. When evaluating sub/sat systems listen closely to male voices, if they sound "thin" the system suffers from this midrange suck-out problem. Definitive’s ProCinema/ProMonitor models employ a bass radiator on the top of the enclosure to extend their lower midrange response and avoid this problem.
The other issue is bass response. Some of the so-called "subwoofers" in these systems should really be called "woofers" because they don't reproduce the truly deep bass with authority. If the system is to be used for only music, that may not be a problem. But if the primary use is home theater, you may later find the need for an additional powered subwoofer. Definitive ProCinema systems employ powered woofers that reproduce deep bass with authority and are worthy of the name sub-woofer. As always, listen before you buy and trust your ears.
Can I mount ProCenter speakers to a wall?Answer:
All ProCenters (400, 600, 1000, and 2000) each have two ¼ -20 threaded inserts to accommodate articulating wall mount brackets such as Definitive's ProMount models. The threads are located on the back of the speaker, one on the left and one on the right.
Do I need to register in order for my product to be covered by Definitive's warranty?Answer:
You do not need to register your purchase with us to be covered by our warranty. However there are other things you must do to protect your warranty rights.
The single most important aspect of maintaining warranty coverage is: KEEP YOUR SALES RECEIPT! Without proof of date and place of purchase you will not be able to get service under the warranty. Some retailers can look up individual sales records but many cannot and some have gone out of business.
Definitive Technology offers a free “lockbox” style service as part of the on-line registration process. Once you register your information you may upload a scanned copy of your receipt. We will save it in perpetuity on our secure server. You may then rest assured, should you ever need warranty service your receipt is just a log in (or a phone call) away.
There are other good reasons to register your Definitive Technology purchase. Should we ever need to contact you regarding a product service or safety alert we will be able to do so (it hasn’t happened yet but you never know…).
Definitive Technology takes your privacy seriously. We will never, and I mean absolutely ever, sell your information to ANYONE (corporations are people too, my friend). You will not be spammed by registering with us. We will contact you only in the event of an important service alert, unless you choose (during the registration process) to join our research council or to receive our monthly newsletter.
There is one small additional instance in which we may contact you. The first time you register your personal information you will be automatically entered to win a free ProSub 800 Powered Subwoofer! If you win we will have to either contact you or draw another name (sorry about that).
Why am I not getting any bass out of my new subwoofer?Answer:
The most common reason is incorrect system set up.
The best way to connect a Definitive Technology powered subwoofer is via single subwoofer cable, connecting the Audio/Video Receiver's (AVR’s) “SW” Preout” (Subwoofer) to the subwoofer’s “LFE” input (Low Frequency Effect). There are two additional steps to configure your AVR properly.
Using the AVR owner’s manual as a guide, the first step is to locate the “Set Up” or “Settings” menu through your AVR’s on screen display. Once in the menu, locate the subwoofer setting and select “yes” or “on”.
The second step is to locate the “channel level” or “test tone” controls, so we can make sure the signal coming into the subwoofer is strong enough to activate the sub’s Auto On feature. Activate a manual test tone and increase the subwoofer level to between +2dB and +6dB. This will insure enough power is sent to the subwoofer to turn it on. Note you may need to lower the subwoofer’s volume control to avoid having too much bass.
An alternate method is simply lower the subwoofer’s hard wired volume and run your AVR’s automatic calibration again. Note that if you have a ProSub the volume control is not on the back panel but on the right side of the cabinet. Once you lower that level and run the automatic calibration the system will sense less bass and should respond by increasing the subwoofer output level.
Some installations may use speaker wire only, in which the front speakers are connected through the subwoofer’s speaker level pass through (labeled on subwoofer as: high level inputs / high level outputs). If this is the case, using the AVR owner’s manual as a guide, the only step is to locate the “Set Up” or “Settings” menu through your AVR’s on screen display. Once in the menu, locate the subwoofer setting and select “no” or “off”. This defaults your front speakers to large and sends all the bass over the speaker wires. Note that at this point a filter in the subwoofer is main speaker’s only protection from bass. Locate the volume control and adjust it as needed. The subwoofer should now respond in a fairly robust manner.
If you still don’t have any output, and Subwoofer’s red indicator light does NOT come on, unplug the subwoofer from A/C power and remove the fuse from its holder near the power cord. Inspect the fuse to make sure the internal wire is intact. If the wire is broken or charred contact Definitive Technology for a replacement. You may also seek out a replacement on the open market, just make sure 1) the fuse is rated less than or equal the original amperage, and 2) it is a 250 v Slo Blo style fuse.
If the red indicator light DOES come on you do not need to check the fuse as we already know it is functioning nominally.
Finally, if all else fails contact Definitive Technology Customer Service and a factory trained technician will help guide you to the appropriate action.
My Definitive Technology product needs repair. How can I get service?Answer:
The first thing to do is to contact the authorized Definitive Technology retailer who sold it to you. Your dealer can help you diagnose the source of the problem. In many cases problems that appear to be speaker defects turn out to be set-up or electronics problems. If your retailer cannot help you diagnose the problem call (800) 228-7148 or email Definitive Customer Service.
If it is indeed a speaker problem, as long as you purchased from an authorized dealer, you have four options. But your first step is always to FIND YOUR RECEIPT. Without proof of purchase it may be impossible to get a repair done under warranty. If you purchased from a retailer who is not an authorized Definitive Technology retailer your product is not covered by our warranty.
1. Bring (or ship) the product back to the dealer that sold it to you
This is usually the best and fastest method for getting warranty service. It is always a good idea to call the dealer first to confirm where the product should be taken or shipped. The original authorized dealer is always the service agent for the life of the products warranty.
2. Find a Definitive Technology dealer in your area and ask them if they would be willing to provide warranty service on your item
Definitive dealers are not obligated to perform warranty service on products that they did not sell, but many will especially if you are new to the area. Definitive Technology will provide the dealer with parts at no charge, but in this instance you may bear a bit of cost for labor. Be sure to call or visit the dealer before bringing the item in for service. Of course you should also bring your proof of purchase (sales receipt).
3. Repair it yourself
Most speaker repairs are very easy to perform if you have minimal skills with common household tools. We will provide you with simple to follow instructions and replacement parts. For in-warranty service parts we need a copy of a receipt from an authorized dealer.
4. Ship it to Definitive Technology
Please do not ship any product to us without first speaking with us by phone or email and getting a return authorization. Products that arrive without prior authorization are more likely to get lost and will not be repaired. For in-warranty service we need a copy of a receipt from an authorized dealer. Note that warranty service is NOT performed here at our Maryland headquarters.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD LOUDSPEAKERS BE SHIPPED TO DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY WITHOUT PRIOR CONTACT AND A “RETURN AUTHORIZATION” CODE.
Freight charges to our repair facility (Southern CA) are your responsibility; we will pay for freight back to you. Please note: Products weighing more than 75 lbs. must be shipped on a pallet by a common carrier freight line such as Roadway, ABF, or Estes, in order to ensure that no damage is incurred in transit. Products weighing over 75 pounds will be summarily refused unless properly shipped on pallet via freight carrier.
What is the impedance of Definitive Technology speakers?Answer:
The Short Answer:
Most Definitive Technology loudspeakers are compatible with 8 ohm outputs.
That means that receivers and amplifiers of average or better build quality will have no problems driving Definitive Technology speakers. Some receivers or amplifiers may have an impedance setting in which they allow you to select the impedance of the speaker through an on-screen menu. If the 8 ohm setting causes the receiver or amplifier to overheat and go into protection shut off, wait until the unit cools off and change the impedance to 4 ohm.
Other AVRs will not have any sort of selector for impedance. They are simply able to respond appropriately to whatever impedance they sense. This type of AVR is labeled on the back panel, generally in small white letters by the speaker binding posts, as compatible with 6 ohms or greater.
Definitive speakers are also efficient. It doesn’t take much power for them to sound excellent and play loud, thereby reducing the stress on the receiver or amplifier. Together with a smooth Impedance curve, this makes Definitive’s a safe choice with any good to excellent quality electronics. We do not recommend the use of bargain, entry level electronics with any Definitive loudspeaker.
The Long Technical Answer:
The impedance of a loudspeaker is actually a bit more complex than a single number. Impedance varies with the frequency the loudspeaker it is trying to reproduce. At one frequency a loudspeaker may present an impedance of 4 ohms to the receiver and at another frequency it may present an impedance of 18 ohms. Take a look at the graph below and you’ll see what we mean. The numbers on the Y axis go from 0.0 ohms at the bottom to 20.0 ohms at the top. The numbers on the x axis start at the left at 10Hz and go to the right up to 50,000Hz. Clearly no single number will suffice in describing the Impedance of a loudspeaker.
When looking at an impedance curve, one may be tempted to look for “average” impedance, but this would be misleading. In fact this curve tells us very little, aside from the fact that this loudspeaker's Impedance lands mostly between 4 and 8 ohms.
Further complicating the issue is the “Phase Angle” measurement that also contributes to the “drivability” of the loudspeaker. The bottom line is that even experienced engineers would have a hard time interpreting the impedance and phase angle graphs to gauge the drivability of a loudspeaker from the graphs alone. Suffice it to say that Definitive engineers have optimized the Impedance and Phase Angle curves to make Definitive loudspeakers easy for amplifiers and receivers to play loud, clean and safely.
What kind of cables and speaker wires should I use? What gauge is appropriate?Answer:
We recommend that you get stranded copper cable that is specifically designed for use with speakers, not just lamp cord or (heaven forbid) telephone wire. Your choice of wire can affect the sound quality of your system so we recommend decent quality wire of 14 gauge or lower.
Many find better results using a branded speaker cable such as AudioQuest, Nordost, Audio Art, or DH Labs. Others are completely satisfied with more modest offerings from Blue Jeans Cable or Monoprice. Neither group is wrong per se…
However when considering cables it is absolutely essential that you bear in mind a realistic cost benefit analysis. Remember the three most important aspects to reproducing sound…the speakers, the speakers the speakers! The next most important aspects (in descending order) are the room, the electronics, and then (finally) the connections.
Try to keep most of your budget focused on where it will give you the greatest performance for your hard earned dollar, allocated to the best speakers and subwoofer for your space and taste. Generally you should try to keep the costs of the cables to between 5% - 20% of the cost of the speakers.
For instance it would simply not make sense to spend $400 on a ProSub 800 and $250 on a SuperDuper brand silver subwoofer cable. You will get much better result spending $600 on a SuperCube 2000 and $50 on a modest budget oriented subwoofer cable.
What is Definitive's Warranty?Answer:
Please read your instruction manual for the exact terms of your warranty agreement. All Definitive Technology loudspeakers, if purchased through an authorized Definitive Technology dealer, are covered by a limited manufacturer’s warranty. The exact terms are described in the detailed warranty statement that accompanies each loudspeaker.
Items purchased in the United States from authorized Definitive retailers are covered under the terms of your warranty agreement for the following time periods:
• Loudspeaker Drivers, Crossovers & Cabinets: Five Years
• Amplifiers & Electronics: Three Years
This warranty only applies to the original purchaser; it is not transferable. To take full advantage of your Definitive Warranty, and to avoid any confusion in the future, it is best to register your new Definitive loudspeaker on-line and retain your original purchase receipt.
The best way to prove the warranty status of a product is to have a copy of your original sales receipt. Many people misplace receipts and can't find them when they most need them. When you register your products on-line you may scan your sales receipts and upload them to our database where they will be permanently stored in our secure server, available only to you when you need them.
If you are unsure about these terms or about the warranty of any Definitive Technology component, please consult your Authorized Definitive dealer or contact Definitive Technology directly.
Definitive Technology loudspeakers are built to exacting designs and quality tested every step of the way. They are constructed of high quality materials engineered for long life and high performance sound. We strive to build the best products possible. And we stand behind them.
What receiver or amplifier works best with Definitive Technology loudspeakers?Answer:
Audio Video Receivers that use a "high current" design in the power amplifier section work well with Definitive Technology loudspeakers and will generally sound better; unfortunately, electronics manufacturers do not publish the current capabilities of their products.
The best way for you to determine whether the AVR you are considering is a "high current" model is by looking at the engineering markings on the unit’s back panel. Higher current models will be compatible with 6 ohms or 4 ohms. Lower current models will be rated for 8 ohm speakers only. The lower an AVRs compatible impedance the higher the AVR’s current capacity.
Among all the higher current designs we have found a nice synergy between our speakers and AVRs from Onkyo, Marantz, and NAD.
In the Super Premium Amplifier category any amp should be plenty overbuilt for our purposes and we have had great results with Pass Labs and Audio Research.
Models from Pioneer Elite, Denon, Yamaha Avantage, and Sony ES should also be entirely compatible. Your Definitive Technology retailer can help you select a receiver or amp that is suitable for your speakers.
Do Definitive Technology speakers sound good on music?Answer:
In a word, you better believe it!
Definitive Technology loudspeakers are designed first and foremost to be natural and accurate when reproducing any media. The materials and technologies engineered into Definitive Technology loudspeakers allow them to faithfully reproduce the sounds that are fed into them without exaggeration or loss. Definitive Technology loudspeakers are truly able to meet the demands of music as well as movies.
There are speakers on the market which are billed as "designed for home theater" which are brassy, boomy, or shouty. These speakers are designed more for quantity of sound than for quality of sound. Before you buy a loudspeaker listen to a wide variety of music as well as movies.
Although you may not be considering these speakers primarily for music listening there are still two good reasons to use music as your testing material.
First consider how often you have heard your favorite songs versus how often you have seen your favorite movie. Generally we will be much more familiar with the sonics of familiar music as compared with the sonics of a familiar movie.
Second consider that most oftentimes 80%+ of the audio played back from the front left and front right channels of a movie is cinematic score (in other words…music). This is the kind of big grand sweeping music that gives emotion and context to the on screen images. The fields are alive with the sound of music and all that.
Thus if a speaker doesn't sound good on all kinds of program material, it isn't a good buy.
What are the advantages of the ProCenter 2000 over the ProCenter 1000?Answer:
The ProCenter 2000 uses 5.25-inch BDSS drivers and bass radiators whereas the 1000 uses 4.5-inch BDSS drivers and bass radiators. The cabinet is slightly larger on the 2000 to accommodate the larger components. As a result of larger cabinet, drivers and bass radiators, the ProCenter 2000 has warmer and fuller mid-range response than the 1000. The ProCenter 1000 should be crossed over at 80 Hz, while the 2000 should be crossed over at 60 Hz.
If you are using the ProMonitor 1000s as left and right main speakers the ProCenter 1000 will provide a solid timbre match; however, the ProCenter 2000 takes the matching a step farther by using the same drivers to be a perfect tonal match. Ideally the three front stage speakers (Left, Center and Right) should sound as identical as possible so your ear does not discern a difference when a sound effect or voice pans from one speaker to another. So for ProMonitor 800s the perfect match would be the ProCenter 1000 and for the ProCinema 1000 system the perfect center channel would be the ProCenter 2000.
Why is my passive loudspeaker making bad sounds?Answer:
The most common reason a passive loudspeaker will fail is because the AVR does not have proper bass management settings. Definitive Technology speakers that do NOT have built-in powered subwoofers should be set to small in your AVRs set up menu with a crossover between 40 Hz and 140 Hz, depending upon the model.
The second most likely reason a passive speaker will fail is an amplifier being driven beyond its rated power. This can be difficult to gauge as amps and AVRs do not display how many watts are being played.
The best way to tell if you are playing your system "too loudly" is by how much you have to raise your voice to be heard by someone who is standing a few feet away from you.
It is also worth noting, the best way to test a speaker that's making bad sounds is by disconnecting it from the channel it is connect to and then swapping it with a different channel in the system, one we know is not making any bad sounds.